Setting out on an adventure and conquering Earth’s many peaks is a dream shared by many outdoor enthusiasts. Two iconic locations that often top adventure travelers’ lists are Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania and Machu Picchu in Peru. I’ve been privileged enough to experience both of them and the question I receive most often is which one is harder? Kilimanjaro or Machu Picchu? In order to answer this let’s delve into the unique aspects and challenges of each ascent and trek.
Machu Picchu Salkantay Trek
While the Inca Trail is the most popular trekking route to Machu Picchu, I chose to go the more difficult, adventurous Salkantay Route. Here the trails are less crowded and it is geared more towards the outdoor enthusiast, reaching much higher elevations and covering more rigorous terrain over five days.
There are many challenges along the Salkantay Route, the high altitudes encountered being chief among them. Starting in Cusco at 11,152’ above sea level, my crew and I were immediately met with high-altitude conditions that required a period of acclimatization before even beginning our journey.
A few days before I left the States I started on a regimen of Diamox (acetazolamide) to minimize the acclimatization time.** Once in Cusco, we spent two days visiting local markets and picking up last-minute items. These first two days, I was often lethargic and had a tough time sleeping. The many hills in Cusco seemed to provide their own challenge, which I embraced in an effort to prepare for what lay ahead.
**Since high altitude sickness can begin at 8,000 feet above sea level, it’s important to spend time acclimating to this altitude, even if you’re utilizing preventative medication.
Within the first two days of the Salkantay Route, you reach the highest elevations in your journey which is the biggest challenge of the trek. Day 1 didn’t seem like a significant amount of elevation gain, but it proved difficult for those of us who hadn’t properly acclimatized. After reaching camp we began a side trip to Humantay Lake, a steep climb as you ascend almost 1,000’ in less than a mile. I quickly began showing symptoms of altitude sickness including dizziness, shortness of breath, and visual disturbances. When I saw the mountains starting to “breathe” and wobble, I chose to return to camp where these discomforts subsided.
The second day was unequivocally the most challenging day as we ascended 2,395’ along the infamous ‘Seven Snakes’ to reach our max elevation of 15,190’ at Salkantay Pass. For me, it was a difficult and tedious slog uphill after a rough night with little sleep. I took a lot of breaks and went at a pace that felt right to me. Upon reaching the Salkantay Pass I was exhausted, but happy to begin the downhill portion of the day. For the rest of the trek we stayed below 10,000’, so altitude sickness wasn’t as much of a concern.
Another factor that made the journey difficult was the distance we traveled each day. The first day is a short 6.21 miles, but the remaining days range from 10-16 miles each. While we did get breaks and rest, they never seemed to be enough as we had a pace that needed to be sustained to reach camp/accommodations each night. Even though I initially felt prepared for this aspect, it was rather grueling at times, proving that preparing for the endurance needed is vital. This can be especially true if you happen to be there as strikes or demonstrations are occurring, as we were.
On day 4, our 15-mile route turned into a 20-mile slog since the railway workers were on strike and we had to walk most of the way to Aguas Calientes.
The climate is another aspect that can affect your trip. From high mountain passes to lush jungles the weather can be unpredictable, even in the dry season. You’re sure to encounter colder temps in the mountains, sporadic pouring rain followed by intense sunshine, and high humidity in the jungles. At times, the rain caused parts of the trail to become slippery and tedious to navigate safely, particularly when going downhill.
The final difficulty factor encountered along the Salkantay route is group composition. Due to the low cost of the trek, it’s popular among young adults. For some, this will be a welcome motivation, while others may find trying to keep up with the pace of fit youngsters frustrating.
Overall, the biggest challenges to the Salkantay Trail are the high beginning elevation and early ascent to the highest altitudes, as well as the long days of trekking.
Mount Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route
The 8-Day Lemosho Route on Kilimanjaro is the most popular way to reach Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro. This route has the highest success rate for reaching the summit because it gives you the best avenue to steadily acclimatize.
While there are many factors that can make this trek a challenge, the altitude is probably the most significant. While the thought of reaching an altitude of 19,341’ can seem daunting (especially after my struggles at just 15,190’) our Kilimanjaro guides employed a “climb high, sleep low” strategy that proved very effective for acclimatization. They also checked our oxygen saturation levels daily to ensure our safety.
Summit night was definitely the toughest part of the trek in regards to altitude, as you ascend 4,155’ to the summit. The altitude made the march to the summit a concerted effort, but my guides kept a slow, steady pace and we stopped when needed. I also opted to rent Altox (personal oxygen system) to give myself the best chance of making the summit and to ensure my crew and I had this indispensable medical equipment should the need arise.
The Lemosho Route is shorter than Salkantay by about 4 miles and spread out over 8 days. Unlike the Salkantay Route, only 2 of your days are around 10 miles. While summit night and the following morning are 10.4 miles long, the majority of it is descending from the peak. For those with lower joint issues, the downhill can have its own set of difficulties that require extra care. Portions of the descent have loose scree and ash, as well as downclimbs on slick rock. Having had an ankle reconstructed just 4 months prior I found this tedious and a bit nerve-wracking, more so than any portion of the climb to the top.
Like Salkantay, the Lemosho Route has many different climates that come with their own sets of difficulties. Sporadic downpours in the rainforest can create muddy conditions. The heather/moorland and alpine desert regions see exposure to the elements, including gusty winds and large temperature excursions (sometimes reaching 100°F in the daytime and dropping to 32°F at night). In the Arctic Zone, it can be exceptionally cold and snow and ice can create precarious terrain.
The final, major challenge to the Lemosho Route is the heights and exposure encountered when ascending the Barranco Wall. The trail here is narrow as you climb the cliff face, with large drop-offs and rocky upclimbs. Along the wall, you encounter the infamous Kissing Rock, named such because you have to basically kiss the rock wall as you skirt along a particularly narrow section. Some may find the exposure daunting. Just don’t look down.
Salkantay v Kilimanjaro comparison
In summation: While you have larger elevation gains on the Lemosho Route than on Salkantay, they occur over a more extended time frame and all of them, except summit night, occur at lower elevations. The two routes have varying challenges in regard to distance. With the Salkantay Route, you see long days on your feet over a shorter amount of time while the Lemosho route has much shorter days, but you are going mostly uphill for all but the last day and a half. Both routes experience vast ranges in climate and temperature. The views and experiences of both are unparallelled, with Salkantay having a more cultural, and historical emphasis and Kilimanjaro leaning more toward the adventure of conquering one of the Seven Summits.
The final answer to which is harder ultimately boils down to one’s preferences, personal fitness, and overall type of experience sought.
Author’s take: For me, Machu Picchu was more physically difficult due to complications, acclimatization, and very long, exhausting days. While Kilimanjaro was certainly challenging, the pace was more beneficial for acclimatization and enjoyment of the actual trekking, resulting in successfully summiting the mountain.